The "moonscape" Cappadocia

Cappadocia, Turkey is the historic area of central Anatolia bounded by the towns of Hacıbektaş, Aksaray,Niğde and Kayseri (map). It was known as Cappadocia in ancient times, and is still called Kapadokya informally today.

Cappadocia is Turkey's most visually striking region, especially the "moonscape" area around the towns of Ürgüp, Göreme, Uçhisar, Avanos and Mustafapaşa (Sinasos), where erosion has formed caves, clefts, pinnacles, "fairy chimneys" and sensuous folds in the soft volcanic rock.

Although the volcanic landscape can appear inhospitable, the mineral-rich soil is excellent for growing vegetables and fruits, making Cappadocia a rich agricultural region. It has always been one ofAnatolia's prime grape-growing areas, and still boasts many productive vineyards and wineries.

The Bible's New Testament tells of Cappadocia, but in fact this part of central Anatolia has been important since Hittite times, long before the time of Jesus.

Prime activities here are visiting the historic painted cave churches of the many monastic valleys (especially the Göreme Valley and Zelve Valley), flying in a hot-air balloon at dawn above the incredible landscape, hiking the volcanic valleys (especially theRose Valley [Güllüdere]), and spending the night in acomfortable cave hotel room with all the modern comforts. Here are the highlights of what to see and do in Cappadocia. Here's a list of the towns of Cappadocia.

For an excellent full-day excursion, drive to the surprising underground cities at Derinkuyu and Kaymaklı and the formerly Ottoman-Greek mountain town of Güzelyurt before taking a hike of several hours in the Ihlara Valley. 

You may also want to spend a half-day hiking the less-visited Soğanlı Valleys of southern Cappadocia, south of Mustafapaşa. Another great excursion is to the Byzantine Iconoclastic rock-hewn monastery at Eski Gümüşler near Niğde.

Uzungöl Lake Trabzon

Uzungöl is a lake situated to the south of the city of Trabzon, in the Çaykara district of Trabzon Province, Turkey. Uzungöl is also the name of the village on the lake's coast.

Once known as Trebizond, this historic port city near the eastern end of Turkey's Black Sea coast (map) provides interesting contrasts to the normal Turkish town.

Trabzon (pop. 240,000) has been around since at least746 BC, so it has quite a story to tell, though you must work some to find the clues.

What to See & Do

Its old walled quarter contains numerous Byzantinechurches, though most are not easily accessible. Several kilometers to the west of the center, the well-preserved Hagia Sophia (Aya Sofya, 1263) stands on a hill overlooking the Black Sea. More...

Trabzon is also a good base for visiting surrounding sites such as Sumela Monastery, the alpine village ofAyder, and the tea-growing towns such as Rize to the east.

Finding Your Way Around

Trabzon's layout is confusing! Built on a mountainside falling into the sea, it may take its name from thetrapeza (table) of land on which part of the ancient city was perched.

The modern city has sprawled far beyond the ancient city walls. Even so, Trabzon's quarter-million inhabitants—and their cars and trucks—pack its narrow, twisting streets often to the point of stasis.

Your main point of orientation is Atatürk Alanı (Atatürk Square), a shady park at the heart of the city, referred to by locals simply as the meydan (plaza).

Trabzon's historic harbor (liman) is downhill to the north of Atatürk Alanı, an easy 10-minute walk.

West of Atatürk Alanı, Uzun Sokak is a major pedestrian shopping street. To its north,Kahramanmaraş Caddesi is filled with shoppers, but also vehicular traffic.

Walk west along either of these streets and in 10 minutes you'll come to the steep valley of the Soğuk Su creek and parts of the old city walls near theAtapark, another shady refuge.

Trabzon's airport (TZK) is 6 km (3.7 miles) southeast of Atatürk Alanı along the Black Sea shore

Prophets' City Urfa

Şanlıurfa, 150 km (93 miles) east of Gaziantep and 1,300 km (808 miles) southeast of Istanbul, is perhaps the most interesting and historic city in Turkey's southeastern region.

Turks know Urfa (as it's commonly called) as the Prophets' City because of legends telling that the Patriarch Abraham was born in a cave here. (The Bible does say he stayed at Harran, 50 km [31 miles] to the south.) The cave, and other legendary locations, are visited annually by hundreds of thousands of Muslim pilgrims.

It's certain that Urfa (OOR-fah, pop. 500,000, alt. 518 m/1700 feet), as it's commonly called, is very old, dating back at least 3500 years to Hittite times; and the world's first temple at nearby Göbekli Tepe dates from 11,000+ years ago.

Because Urfa is set right at the crossroads of routes to Europe, Asia and Africa, just about everyone important has marched through and left their mark, including the Babylonians, Egyptians, Alexander the Great, Greeks,Romans and Seljuk Turks under Saladin.

The Crusaders, no doubt attracted by the town's easily-defended promontory called the Throne of Nimrod, called it Edessa and made it the capital of the Latin County of Edessa, ruled by Count Baldwin of Boulogne.

Because of its attraction of religious pilgrims, Şanlıurfa has a good variety of hotels. Stay at least one night here so you have time to see the sights: Balıklıgöl, or Fish Pool, at the center of the religious pilgrimage area; the wondrous old covered bazaar; the Throne of Nimrod fortress; the good little archaeological museum; some of the fine old houses; and of course an excursion to Göbekli Tepe. More...

The southeast is hot hot HOT in summer, so plan your visit for another time of year if possible. See When to Gofor details.

Capital of the Ottoman Empire.

Come to Bursa, due south of Istanbul across the Sea of Marmara (map), for its beautiful mosques and otherearly Ottoman architecture, for its silk-filledbazaars, its thermal spa baths and hotels.

You can visit Bursa to see the top sights on a day-trip excursion from Istanbul, although an overnight in Bursais more comfortable and rewarding. That way you can also see the ancient town of İznik (Nicaea) on the way to Bursa, and you may even have time to go to the top of Uludağ (OO-loo-dah, 2543 meters, 8343 feet), the mountain behind the city. 

Bursa was the first capital (late 1200s-early 1300s) of the Ottoman Empire. The two founding sultans, Orhanand Osman, are buried here, and this is where the empire's great architectural style was first developed.

The city clings to the slopes of Uludağ, the Bithynian Mount Olympus, and thus got its nickname Green Bursa from the surrounding forests. Now a large, bustling city of 2 million people, much of the greenery has disappeared beneath the concrete and macadam urban sprawl. Bursa's traditional industries of silk weaving and fruit processing have long since been supplemented by motor vehicle manufacturing (it's "Turkey's Detroit") and other industry, large and small.

Mount Nimrod

Nemrut Dağı (Mount Nimrod) is one of Turkey's most astounding sights: an artifical mountaintop framed by two great temples littered with colossal statues.

Lost to memory for 2000 years, the mountaintop south of Malatya and north of Adıyaman and Kahta(map), was rediscovered by a geologist in 1881.

On it are two hierothesiums, open-air shrines to the gods, with huge limestone statues of Apollo, Fortuna, Zeus, Heracles, and Antiochus I Epiphanes, King of Commagene.

His kingdom was no more than a minor buffer statebetween the Roman and Persian empires, but Antiochus believed he was definitely big-league stuff, so he had his own huge statue seated with "his equals," the gods.

Between the hierothesiums is the artificial mountain peak of crushed stone, beneath which may be theactual tomb of Antiochus. We don't know, and we may never know.

Was Elvis Presley really Antiochus reincarnated? Click here!

You can ascend Nemrut Dağı (NEHM-root dah-uh, 2150 meters, 7054 feet) from the south using eitherKahta or Adıyaman as your base; or from the northusing Malatya. Both have advantages and disadvantages.

Do it in July or August, or at least between late May and mid-October, or you might be blocked by snow (seeTom's Turkish Almanac for details).

The roads up the opposite sides of the mountain do not meet at the top, so you cannot (yet) drive right over from north to south or vice-versa.

Bring warm clothes!—at least a warm sweater and windbreaker—because there is always a cool breeze at the summit, and sometimes a cold wind, even inAugust.

Lake Van, Eastern Turkey

Eastern Turkey's vast, highly alkaline inland sea called Lake Van (Van Gölü) is surrounded by historyand stark beauty.

The city of Van is the goal of most travelers because of its historic sights, hotels, transportation links, beautifulVan cats and other attractions, but Tatvan, on the western shore, is the railhead for trains westward toAnkara and Istanbul.

Just north of Tatvan, Nemrut Dağı (2935 meters/9629 feet) is an extinct volcano holding a beautiful crater lake. (This is not the Nemrut Dağı with the colossal stone statues, which is 500 km (311 miles) W near Malatya.)

Near Gevaş, 90 km (56 miles) E of Tatvan and 44 km (27 miles) SW of Van, you can hire a boat for the 3-km (2-mile), 20-minute voyage north to the island of Akdamar to see its 10th-century Armenian Church of the Holy Cross with fine relief carving.

Edremit, 15 km (9 miles) W of Van, has beaches at which you may dip a toe in the highly alkaline lake—but not if the toe is sunburned or has a cut on it, as the alkaline water will sting mercilessly. If you havedirty laundry, you can wash it in the lake and you won't need any soap.

At Ahlat on the NW shore are unusual Seljuk Turkishtombs and cemeteries. What is now called Malazgirt, 87 km (54 miles) NW of the city of Van, was onceManzikert. On August 26, 1071, Seljuk Turkish Sultan Alp Arslan defeated Byzantine Emperor Romanus IV Diogenes on the field of battle here, opening all of Anatolia to conquest by the Seljuks and, later, theOttomans.

Van is also the base for visits to the mountain towns ofHakkâri and Yüksekova.

Bitlis, a provincial capital 17 km (11 miles) SW of Tatvan, is set dramatically in a valley, and boasts several Seljuk Turkish mosques and caravanserais, and a castle.

Unless you like long bus or car trips, or even longertrain trips, the best way to get to Van is by plane.

Troy (Truva)

It's a thrill to visit ancient Troy, easily done in a day from Çanakkale, Bozcaadaor Assos, or overnight fromIstanbul, by car or tour.

Troy is impressive for its great age (the oldest ruins date from 3000 BC) and beautiful situation. The hokeywooden horse is just for fun (especially for kids).

A movie, with Brad Pitt and Diane Kruger, was released in May 2004. More...

Discovery of Troy

For most of the last 3000 years, people assumed thatHomer's Iliad was fiction, and that Troy (Truva in Turkish) never existed.

Then in 1863 a British expatriate named Frank Calvertdiscovered ancient ruins at a place in western Turkey called Hisarlık (maps), and was convinced they were Troy.

Heinrich Schliemann showed up in 1868, provided money for more digging, and took credit for discovering Troy.

City of Whirling Dervishes Konya

Konya, 261 km (162 miles) south of Ankara (map), is Turkey's city of Whirling Dervishes, and has been for 800 years.

Located right on the ancient Silk Road, Konya has lots to see and do, a number of good hotels, and transport is easy.

Located about three hours' drive south ofAnkara, it's an extremely old city, its roots going back to the days of the Hittites, who called it Kuwanna. As a Roman city, it wasIconium. Today it is the most religiously conservative city in Turkey—and proud of it.

The reason to visit Konya is to see theMevlana Museum which shelters the tomb ofJelaleddin Rumî (1207-1273), known to his followers as Mevlana (or Rumî), a Muslim poet and mystic and one of the great spiritual thinkers and teachers of all time.

Konya was the capital of the Seljuk Turkish Sultanate of Rum ("ROOM," that is, Rome)which flourished in Central Anatolia from 1071 to 1275. The Seljuks built numerouscaravansarays along the Silk Road betweenCappadocia and Konya, and beyond. 

Seljuk architecture is outstanding, and numerous great Seljuk buildings—mosques and theological seminaries mostly—are Konya's pride and joy. 

During the holy month of Ramazan, many restaurants may be closed during daylight hours, and may open only for İftar, the break-the-fast dinner just after sundown.

The Mevlevi sema is the Sufi worship ceremony in which the Mevlevi dervisheswhirl for a quarter of an hour at a time in their quest for mystical union with the Divine. 

In fact, Konya is an interesting place any time of year, with its historic buildings and savory slow-roasted mutton Konya kebap, though it can be difficult to get a beer or a glass of wine with dinner (strictly observantMuslims do not consume alcoholic drinks at all).

About 45 km (28 miles) southeast of Konyalies Çatalhöyük, the famous Neolithic archeological site excavated by James Melaart in the 1950s, and currently under further investigation. More...

Beyşehir, 92 km (57 miles, 1.5 hours' drive) west of Konya on the way to theMediterranean coast, boasts Anatolia's most beautiful Seljuk Turkish wooden mosque, theEşrefoğlu Camii (1296-1299), well worth a look in passing, or even a day excursion.

As for Konya transportation, daily Turkish Airlines flights connect Konya with Istanbul, and soon a High-Speed Train. There are also dozens of fast, frequent and comfortable dailybuses.

Pamukkale (Hierapolis)

Pamukkale, 18 km (11 miles) north of Denizli (map), isTurkey's foremost mineral-bath spa because of itsnatural beauty: hot calcium-laden waters spring from the earth and cascade over a cliff. As they cool they form dramatic travertines of hard, brilliantly white calcium that form pools.

Named the Cotton Fortress (pah-MOOK-kah-leh) in Turkish, it has been a spa since the Romans built the spa city of Hierapolis around a sacred warm-water spring. TheAntique Pool is still there, littered with marble columns from the Roman Temple of Apollo. You can swim in it for a fee.

In the 1990s the local authorities undertook adevelopment campaign meant to improve the spa and increase tourism. Misconceived in some ways, the development, along with changes in Turkey's entire tourism picture, resulted in fewer visitors.

As you enter Pamukkale Town in a car, local men on motor scooters will race after you, catch you, and gesture to you to stop your car. When you do, thinking there is perhaps something wrong with your vehicle, or a dangerous situation ahead, you will discover that they only want to sell you something.

They will ask if you need a hotel, restaurant, souvenir, carpet, etc. If you need any of these services, they will lead you to them and probably take a commission for their efforts. This may or may not affect the price you pay, I don't know—but I suspect it doesn't lower it. Although they are only trying to make a living, and in some cases to help visitors find things, I find them a nuisance as they will not let you go until they have made their pitch.

Once famous for figs, Izmir

Turkey's 3rd-largest city, the "capital" of the Aegean region, a major port and commercial center set dramatically around a huge bay and backed by mountains to the south.

It is the transport center of the Aegean region. Here's my Izmir Region Transport Map to help you make your way to, through and from Izmir.

During the War of Independence (1922) adisastrous fire destroyed most of old Smyrna.

Today Izmir (EEZ-meer, pop. 3 million) is a mostly modern city with good hotels and restaurants, an interesting bazaar, a few small archeological sites, a big, busy Otogar (bus terminal), and an important airport south of the city on the way to Ephesus.

Some travelers use Izmir as a base to visit such regional sights as Bergama/ Pergamum,Çeşme & Alaçatı, Sardis, Ephesus & Kuşadası,Aphrodisias & Pamukkale, because Izmir has a great variety of hotels.

You needn't linger in Izmir if your time in Turkey is short, but if it suits your schedule to spend a night here, enjoy Izmir's Aegeanambience: see the sights, wander in the bazaar, sip drinks and dine at the pleasantwaterfront restaurants.

Izmir is easy to reach by air, bus, train andboat.

Bodrum

Once known as Halicarnassus, the popular resort and yachting port of Bodrum, on the Bodrum peninsula at the southern end of Turkey's Aegean coast (map), boasts the ruins of the original Mausoleum, one of the Seven Wonders of the World, as well as the lofty Castle of St Peter, a Crusader fortress which now serves as the world's foremost Museum of Underwater Archaeology. 

Bodrum is also known for its enthusiastic nightlife. If you like staying up late at loud discos and clubs, you'll love Bodrum. If you go to bed early and sleep lightly, you may suffer. As the provincial governor once said, "If you want quiet, go somewhere else." 

Two small picture-perfect bays frame the castle, making it particularly attractive to yachters.

The beaches right in town are small and the water not particularly appealing, but there are other beaches and towns nearby. In fact, many people choose to make their base in other towns around the Bodrum peninsula, coming to Bodrum itself for visits. 

To get away to a secluded hotel, or rental villa or cottage in Bodrum or one of the other towns on theBodrum peninsula for a week or a fortnight is really a dream-come-true. More...

Bodrum's beauty, mild climate and access to the sea have drawn so many Turkish and foreign visitors and part-year residents that population growth and construction are changing the character of the peninsula dramatically. Traffic is now a major concern, with roadways unable to keep up with the explosive growth in the number of vehicles. Allow plenty of time for slow going as you move about the peninsula.

Antalya 'Capital of Mediterranean Coast'

Antalya (population 2 million), "capital" of the Turkish Mediterranean Coast, is a sprawling modern city with a small, charming historic center, a good archaeology museum, long sunny beaches to east and west, the Turquoise Coast's busiest airport, good hotels, lots tosee and do, and dramatic sea and mountain views.

The historic center, called Kaleiçi (Kah-leh-ee-chee, Old Antalya) surrounds the Roman harbor. Many buildings here date from Ottoman times, a few fromRoman times, and some have been restored as houses,boutique hotels, pensions and restaurants.

Antalya's prime beach is Konyaaltı Plajı, a l-o-n-g swath of rough sand and pebbles running west for several kilometers.

The sand is somewhat softer along Lara Plajı to the east. Other beaches are farther afield at Sideand Alanya to the east, or Kemer, Phaselis andOlimpos to the south.

Visit Antalya for Kaleiçi, the museum andbeaches, and because it's the transport hub of the region with a big, modernairport 10 km (6 miles) east of the city center, and a big, modern bus terminal(Otogar) 4 km (2.5 miles) north. Here's more on how to get to Antalya, and how to get around.

Antalya is also a good base for day-trips to nearbyarcheological sites such as Aspendos, Olimpos, Perge,Phaselis, Selge, Side and Termessos (map), and evenriver rafting in Köprülü Kanyon National Park.

Capital Ankara

Ankara, Turkey's capital city, is important to diplomats, bureaucrats, lobbyists and military, and has a few significant sights for visitors.

Before the Turkish War of Independence brought Kemal Atatürk and his generals to Ankara as a wartime command post, this Central Anatolian town 454 km (282 miles) southeast of Istanbul (map) was a small town with a Roman citadel on a high hill and a brisk trade in soft Angora goat hair and the garments made from it.

After Atatürk proclaimed Ankara to be the capital of the new Turkish Republic, it began to grow. After WWII, aconstant influx of villagers from the countryside in search of a better life brought Ankara explosive growth.

Today this city at an altitude of 848 meters (2782 feet) is a sprawling metropolis of five million people, many of them employed in government ministries and embassies, in universities and schools, in hospitals and medical centers, the military, and some in light industry on the outskirts.

The city now sprawls through valleys and across hills in every direction, but on your visit you need only be concerned with a few specific areas.

Ankara's several interesting sights such as the citadel, Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, Anıtkabir(Atatürk Mausoleum) and Roman ruins, can fully occupy you for a day, but if your itinerary is rushed, spending half a day here may suffice. 

If you don't want to bother finding your way around, consider joining a half-day city tour.

Ankara can also be your base, or starting point, for visits to other points of interest in Central Anatolia.Excursions run from Ankara east to the Hittite capital of Boğazkale (Hattuşa-Yazılıkaya) and the historic town of Amasya, north to the fine historic town fluorocarbon, and south to Cappadocia (maps).

Centrally located, Ankara is a transportation nexus for all of Turkey's bus, train, plane and highway routes.More...

Ankara has plenty of good hotels and restaurants, of course, but again, you need be concerned with only a few for a one-night visit.

Near & Out of Istanbul

You've seen Istanbul's top sights, now get out of the city. Here are the best one-day and overnight trips:

Bosphorus Cruise

A half-day or day-long excursion up the strait that runs through Istanbul, visiting castles, palaces... and—if you're like me—fish restaurants! More...

Princes Islands

A voyage to these islands just offshore from Istanbul is a great way to spend a day...or even overnight (but avoid weekends). More...

Beaches near Istanbul

The beaches will be crowded on any hot summer day, but they still provide a refreshing getaway. More...

Bursa

Zoom south across the Sea of Marmara in a catamaran to see this first capital of the Ottoman Empire, with itsfine old mosques, silk weaving trade, and thermal spas. Make it an overnight and see İznik (Nicaea) as well. More...

Edirne

Comfortable day-long excursion by bus or car to see thefine old mosques and lively bazaars of the secondOttoman capital, delightfully free of tourist crowds.More...

Çanakkale & Gallipoli

Long day-trip by bus or car to see the Dardanelles, theGallipoli battlefields, and even ancient Troy; possible in a long day, but better as an overnight. More...

Ephesus

Best-preserved classical city in the entire Mediterranean, a must-see; go by plane for the day, or overnight.

Tour Istanbul in One Day

If you have only a day, or part of a day, to see the sights in Istanbul, efficient airport transport inessential, so I recommend you consider the economical private airport transfers, guided tours and similar travel services of my friends at Efendi Travel in Sultanahmet.

Efendi's professional drivers and airport welcome staff know the traffic situations at all times in Istanbul, and their GPS-tracking-equipped Mercedes vans and minivans can whisk you into the city to see the sights and return you to the airport in time for your onward flight.

Luckily for those with little time, Istanbul's top sightsare grouped right around the Hippodrome in Sultanahmet Square, so it can be possible to visit them all on your first (or only) day.

The challenge is crowds: Istanbul is such a popular travel destination these days, especially in April, May,September and October, that lines/queues to enter can be very long.

Here's How to Skip the Ticket Lines

You can skip those l-o-n-g ticket lines at major sights by taking a tour, hiring a private guide, or buying a Museum Pass.

Efendi Travel offers moderately-priced one-day walking tours. For a premium tour, contact Istanbul Tour Studio.

Reserve one of my recommended licensed private guides, well in advance—their agendas fill up quickly.More...

An alternative is the Museum Pass, which allows you to jump the line as well. More...

Morning

Topkapı Palace

Get there at 8:45 am and go straight to the Harem, which gets overcrowded (9-5, closed Tuesday; stay 2-3 hr).

Blue Mosque

Just across the park from Ayasofya, on theHippodrome, the Mosque of Sultan Ahmet III(Sultanahmet Camii) is always crowded, and often closed for prayers. Check the prayer times and plan your visit accordingly (stay 1/2 hr), or visit a different imperial mosque to save time and have a better-quality visit.More...

Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya)

Right next to Topkapı. Don't miss the best mosaics, on the upper level (9-4, closed Monday; stay 1 hr).

Lunch 

Lots of restaurants on Divan Yolu, but better prices in nearby Sirkeci and Hocapaşa.

Afternoon

Byzantine Hippodrome

The park in front of the Blue Mosque is the ancient Hippodrome, with two obelisks, a truncated snake column, and a fountain donated by Kaiser Wilhelm II (stay 1/2 hr).

Basilica Cistern

At the NE end of the Hippodrome, just across the street from Hagia Sophia, beneath the little park (Yerebatan Saray Sarnıçı, 9-5; stay 1/2 hr).

Grand Bazaar

Walk uphill on Divan Yolu from the Hippodrome and see the sights along the way, or take the tram along it toÇarşıkapı (CHAR-shuh-kah-puh) (9-5, closed Sunday & holidays; stay 1-2 hrs, longer if you're really shopping). An alternative, open every day of the week, is theEgyptian (Spice) Bazaar by the Galata Bridge on theGolden Horn. More...

Bosphorus Cruise

If one of the above sights is not of interest, substitute a 75-minute cruise up the Bosphorus. More...

Evening

Turkish Bath (Hamam)

A Turkish bath (1-3 hr) can be amazingly refreshing after a long day! Here are suggested hamams. 

Dinner

Istanbul has dozens of excellent restaurants for dinner.

A Few Hours in Istanbul

You arrive at one of Istanbul's two airports, you must travel to the other airport to continue your journey, and you have most of a day to make the transfer, so you want to take advantage of this opportunity to see some of the city.

Istanbul's Airports

Atatürk Airport (IST) is on the European side of theBosphorus, 23 km (14 miles) west of the historic Istanbul city center (Sultanahmet). Sabiha Gökçen Airport (SAW) is on the Asian side of the Bosphorus, 45 km (28 miles) east of the city center, 68 km (42 miles) from Atatürk Airport.

It's not difficult to travel between the two airports. You can do it by private airport transfer; by city bus, Marmaray and Metro; or by taxi, taking between 2 and 3+ hours, depending on traffic and how and when you travel. Here's how.

Keeping in mind that you are advised to be at the airport2 hours before any international flight departure time, you should allow a minimum 5 hours between your scheduled arrival time at one airport, and your departure time at the other.

First Trip to Turkey

On your first trip to Turkey, whether your take a tour or follow your own itinerary, you can visit the top sights - Istanbul, Ephesus, Cappadokia and the western Mediterranean coast—in as little as 6 to 10 days:

• Istanbul
• Gallipoli & Troy
• Ephesus & Pamukkale
• Western Mediterranean Coast
• Cappadocia

In this short amount of time, you will have to get the transport just right—and transport in Turkey can be a bit complicated.

One way to do it all is with a private driver-guide tour.More...

Of course, it's better if you can spend 11 to 15 days. This amount of time gives you the option to go off the beaten track and have some days of leisure at the beach, or shopping, or in a favorite museum or archaeological site.

Why Not See Istanbul's the Sights?

But if you have any more time than this, you can see Istanbul. You'll be traveling across the Bosphorus and through the heart of the city in any case, so if you have a few more hours, why not see some sights?

Your Luggage!

In a word, luggage. What will you do with your suitcases, backpacks, etc. while you see the sights?

Unfortunately, I know of no place in the city center where you could deposit your suitcases safely for several hours as you toured, but there is a solution.

The Solution: Transfer + Tour

If you contact a travel agency and set up a private tour, you can see all the sights for which you have time, leave your luggage in the tour vehicle to be watched by your driver, and have a comfortable inter-airport transfer at the same time. (Yours will probably have to be a private tour because you may not be able to join a scheduled half-day or full-day tour.)

Because you are using the vehicle and driver for two purposes at the same time—transfer and tour—the overall price for the transfer + tour should be lower than for each of these services separately. In effect, youreceive a discount on both services.

The larger your traveling party (2, 3, 4 travelers or more), the more advantageous this can be.

How to Do It

So here's how to plan it:

1. Compare your arrival time at the one airport, and your departure time at the other airport. If you have 6 or more hours between those two times, you should plan a combined transfer + tour. With only an hour or so, you can have a mostly-driving tour. With 3+ hours wyou'll have time to stop, walk, and visit some sights in detail.

2. Review my Istanbul Top Sights pages and decide what you want to see. (Keep in mind the times of dayand days of the week when certain sites are closed.)

3. Contact one of my recommended travel agenciesand ask them to quote you a price on your proposed transfer + tour. Any of these fine agencies can make all the arrangements for you. More...

My friends at Efendi Travel, a Turkey Travel Planner. com-partner, are very experienced in Istanbul airport transfers, and have their own successful airport transfer service with their own fleet of vehicles. They can tell you what to expect for traffic and travel times between airports; and because they also operate many guided tours, they have private guides on staff who can show you just the Istanbul sites you want. More...

4. Besides a few hours in the historic center around Sultanahmet, you will be crossing the Bosphorus, so you could stop somewhere on its shores—perhaps even for lunch, tea time or dinner.

5. Because you are combining airport transfers, luggage safekeeping and a private tour, this would be an efficient and cost-effective way to make the most of your brief time in Istanbul.

Choose a Good Tour Company

Turkey has hundreds of tour companies and thousands of guided tours, from half-day tours of Istanbul to 21-day grand tours of the entire country.

Here are some tips for your first trip to Turkey.

It's important for you to realize that all tours are not equal. A tour from a good company will give you far more value than a tour from a mediocre company, even if their tour itineraries and prices are similar. Low price does not always indicate good value-for-money. Before you sign up for any tour, read Good & Bad Tours in Turkey.

Keep in mind that any of my recommended travel agencies can set up a custom itinerary for you, or you canhire a professional guide.

Why Take a Tour?

Having authored travel guidebooks to Turkey for decades, I believe many travelers can tour the country on their own, but many visitors may find Turkey different enough that they want some help with their touring.

Help can range from a half-day walking tour to get a feel for Istanbul, all the way to a 22-day all-inclusive luxury tour of the entire country.

It's important to realize that tour doesn't necessarily mean 45 people jammed into a bus zooming by old buildings. A tour can be:

—Walking to and through Istanbul's most interesting sights with a small and congenial group of fellow explorers led by a friendly, knowledgeable guide.

—Strolling through a city's vibrant markets and haggling for the ingredients of a delicious Turkish meal that you will help—and learn—to prepare.

—Soaring over the moonscape of Cappadocia in a hot-air balloon.

—Jolly walks and meals with new friends, and a guide who can answer questions and tell stories that aren't in the guidebooks.

Joining a small band of other travelers on a common adventure means you don't have to make all those travel arrangements yourself; that if something goes wrong, others will fix it at no additional cost; that you have an advocate for special needs and situations; and that local experts will arrange experiences that you couldn't.